Onomichi.

In Onomichi, the distance between mountain and sea feels wonderfully small. Leave the waterfront and the streets begin to climb, turning into stone steps, narrow alleys and passages beside old wooden houses. Look back: a gap between rooftops becomes a frame for the water.

This is a different experience from Kyoto’s grand temple avenues. Here, the memorable details belong to a lived-in town: plants beside a doorway, a cat resting in the shade, laundry above a lane. Walk slowly, keep residential paths clear and enjoy the discoveries between the sights.

• Six stories from the hills
• An introduction to Onomichi

Senkoji Temple sits on the hillside, where vermilion buildings, rocks and sea views seem to belong to the same landscape. Above it, Senkoji Park offers space to pause and see how the town fits between the slopes and the water.

Take the ropeway to the summit area, enjoy the PEAK observation deck, then follow the paths toward the temple. The park, temple and downhill lanes reward an unhurried visit. Expect slopes and steps, even if you travel uphill by ropeway.

• Explore Senkoji & the park
• The PEAK observation deck

Onomichi is much more than the town of Senkoji. Its temples are part of the streets themselves, connected by old lanes, stone walls and neighborhoods. Tenneiji’s pagoda rises above the rooftops; Saikokuji has a striking approach and giant straw sandals at its gate.

Continue east to Jodoji and Kairyuji for another layer of the town. Jodoji’s historic buildings invite a slower visit, while the surrounding streets lead away from the busiest sightseeing paths. Small shrines add a different thread of local faith and community life.

Choose a few places rather than rushing through them all. The journey between temple gates is part of the experience, and eastern Onomichi deserves time of its own.

• Senkoji
• Tenneiji
• Saikokuji
• Jodoji
• Kairyuji
• The Old Temple Walk
• All temples & shrines
• Understanding Japanese shrines

Onomichi is a town where the sea is always close. Between the city and Mukaishima lies the narrow Onomichi Channel, crossed constantly by small ferries and boats. From the hillside, you can watch them move slowly across the water, while from the waterfront the opposite shore feels almost within reach. Here, the sea is not only scenery. It is part of everyday life, connecting people, islands, work, and travel. This closeness between town and water gives Onomichi its unique rhythm and quiet charm.

• Discover the Seto Inland Sea

On the Path of Literature, words carved into stones accompany the hillside scenery. Writers including Shiga Naoya and Hayashi Fumiko found meaning in the town’s sea views, streets and memories.

Yasujiro Ozu’s Tokyo Story and Nobuhiko Obayashi’s films add another way of seeing Onomichi. Its nostalgic atmosphere comes from ordinary life: a train passing, a ferry crossing, a home above the sea. You do not need to know the films to feel that quiet sense of story.

• Literature, cinema & the people behind them

Leave room for the places between attractions. Small shrines, old shopping streets, side alleys and local coffee shops reveal a town that continues at its own pace. Along the waterfront, boats and crossings give the day its rhythm.

For a deeper look, head toward the eastern temples and shrines. Explore thoughtfully: these are working streets, places of worship and people’s homes. Sometimes the best discovery is simply a quiet corner where the sea appears again.

• Six ways into Hidden Onomichi
• Explore the quieter eastern side